A Journey Through Tsuetate Onsen: Exploring Retro Streets and Fading Glory in Kumamoto’s Secret Hot Spring Town

By わた旅

This video immerses viewers in Tsuetate Onsen (杖立温泉), a once-vibrant hot spring town straddling the border of Kumamoto and Oita Prefectures in Kyushu. Once renowned as a unique onsen destination with retro Showa-era charm, Tsuetate Onsen today faces a steep decline due to the bursting of Japan’s economic bubble, ongoing depopulation, a shortage of successors, and repeated damage from flooding. The video provides a thorough tour, highlighting the melancholic beauty of abandoned hotels and the faded nostalgia of the remaining alleyways.

The journey begins at notable regional spots including Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine (上色見熊野座神社), a mystical and historic sanctuary famous for its mossy stone steps and torii gates, and the waterfalls Nabegataki (鍋ヶ滝) and Shimojo Taki (下城滝), which offer tranquil natural scenery. These stops introduce the area’s rich natural and spiritual landscape before leading viewers into the dilapidated but fascinating quarters of Tsuetate Onsen. The streets, though quiet, still display distinctive architecture and riverside views unique to this hidden valley.

A key feature of the video is a stay at Tsuetate Keiryu no Yado Dainature (杖立渓流の宿 大自然), a traditional inn offering a special room with an open-air bath (rotenburo). The host gives viewers an in-depth look at both evening and morning meals, as well as the relaxing amenities of the inn, providing an authentic experience of rural Japanese hospitality. Night scenes show a serene, almost ghostly retro townscape, while the morning features tranquil river sounds and the quiet persistence of local life.

Tsuetate Onsen is one of Kyushu’s least traveled hot spring towns but is known among onsen fans for its uniquely retro, almost time-warped ambiance. Although facing numerous hurdles, it remains a living showcase of rural Japan’s changing fortunes and a fascinating spot for travelers interested in Showa-era nostalgia and disappearing local culture. The video highlights not only the area’s slow decline but also its enduring appeal for those interested in off-the-beaten-path onsen, nostalgia tourism, and the resilience of regional Japan.

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